Creative & ArtBeginnerPreview
Printmaking — Linocut & Woodblock
A hands-on beginner course in relief printmaking that takes you from a blank linoleum or wood block to a signed, numbered edition. You learn carving, inking, hand and press printing, and reduction colour.
For absolute beginners and self-taught makers who want a rigorous, studio-accurate foundation in relief printmaking.
Course content
Workbook & downloads
Put the course into practice — a printable workbook plus editable templates you can fill in and reuse.
Preview the workbook
This workbook turns the course into studio practice. Each section pairs hands-on carving and printing exercises with planning worksheets and check-off lists so you move deliberately from a blank block to a documented edition. Use the templates to record colour recipes, registration plans, and your edition log — the habits that separate a one-off experiment from a repeatable practice.
Tools, Materials, and Setting Up to Print
Assemble your kit, prove your tools are sharp, and learn to see images as positive and negative shapes.
Exercise: The Sharpness Test and First Marks
Hone your V-tool and one U-gouge on a stone or wet-and-dry paper, strop them, then make a 'mark library' on a scrap lino offcut: carve a row of each cut and note how each tool behaves.
- Does your honed tool slice newsprint cleanly, or tear it? If it tears, what step did you skip — the inner burr or the strop?
- Carve a straight line, a tight curve, and a circle with the V-tool. Which felt hardest, and did rotating the block instead of your wrist help?
- Describe the difference in the channel left by the small V-tool versus the large U-gouge.
- How often did you need to re-hone before the tool started dragging?
Exercise: Think in Negative
Take a simple high-contrast photo (a leaf, a mug, a face in strong light). Using a black marker, fill in ONLY the areas that will print as solid ink, leaving white everything that will be carved away. Do not draw outlines — work in masses.
- Where were you tempted to draw a thin outline that the block could not actually hold?
- Did any 'white' area become an island surrounded by black that would need careful clearing?
- Squint at your result from across the room — does the image still read?
Worksheet: Studio Kit and Materials Audit
List what you own and what you still need before your first edition, with a rough cost for each gap.
- Block type and size (lino / shina ply / cherry / rubber)
- Carving tools owned (sizes of V and U, chisel)
- Sharpening setup (stone grits / strop / compound)
- Ink type and brand (oil safe-wash / water-based)
- Brayer width and durometer
- Inking slab surface
- Baren or spoon / press available
- Papers on hand (name, gsm)
- Bench hook / safety glove
- Gaps to buy and estimated cost
Checklist: Ready-to-Carve Bench Setup
- Tools honed, stropped, and tested on newsprint
- Bench hook clamped or braced against the table edge
- Cut-resistant glove on the supporting hand
- Block warmed slightly if using lino
- Good raking light across the block surface
- Slab, brayer, and ink staged but clear of the carving area
- Reference image and mirrored design within sight
Designing and Carving the Block
Plan a print that respects the relief inversion, transfer it accurately, and carve it with control.
Worksheet: Image Plan and Colour-Layer Map
Plan one print before you touch a tool. If working in colour, fill one copy of the layer rows per colour, light to dark.
- Working title
- Black-line or white-line approach
- Single block, multi-block, or reduction
- Final block dimensions
- Number of colours and order (lightest to darkest)
- Layer 1 colour and what it covers
- Layer 2 colour and what it covers
- Layer 3 colour and what it covers
- Keyline / outline layer (yes/no and colour)
- Smallest carved white line width (mm) — confirm >1 mm in lino
Exercise: Mirror, Transfer, and Map
Mirror your design (flip digitally or trace and turn over), transfer it to the block by graphite or toner-transfer, ink the lines with permanent marker, then shade every area you will carve away in a contrasting colour.
- Did your design contain any text or directional element that the mirror affected? Confirm it now reads correctly reversed on the block.
- After mapping, are there any areas where you were unsure which side of a line to carve? Resolve them on paper first.
- Which transfer method did you use, and how crisp were the resulting lines?
Exercise: Outline-Then-Clear Carve
Carve your block in the disciplined order: V-trench just outside every kept line, then clear waste with U-gouges, then flatten floors with the chisel. Pull a rough proof before declaring it finished.
- Did the protective V-trench stop a clearing gouge from skidding into a good edge anywhere?
- When you proofed, what specks or islands appeared that you missed by eye?
- Where did you build tone with hatching or stippling, and did the mark spacing read as the value you intended?
Checklist: Pre-Proof Carving Check
- Every kept line outlined before bulk clearing
- Cleared areas carved to roughly 2–3 mm depth
- Floors of white areas flattened, no ridges or islands
- All crumbs and dust brushed off the block
- Tone areas carved with consistent, directional marks
- Design mirrored — text and direction confirmed correct
- A proof pulled before calling the block done
Inking and Printing
Roll an even ink film, build a registration system, and pull strong prints by hand or press.
Exercise: Find the Right Ink Film
Roll out ink on the slab and adjust it until you hear the soft hiss and see an orange-peel texture. Pull three test prints: one deliberately under-inked, one correct, one deliberately over-inked. Keep all three labelled.
- Describe the sound and look of the slab at the correct film versus too much ink.
- What happened to your finest carved lines in the over-inked pull?
- How many overlapping passes from how many directions gave you even block coverage?
Worksheet: Registration Plan
Choose and document a registration system before printing any colour, then test it on scrap.
- Registration method (kento / pin / L-jig / hinge-tab)
- Block location reference (corner, edges)
- Paper location reference (corner, edge, holes)
- Trapping or keyline strategy to hide drift
- Test-sheet result (in register? drift in mm?)
- Adjustment made before printing good paper
Exercise: Hand-Print a Short Run
Print five sheets by baren or spoon, re-charging the brayer identically each time. Before lifting each sheet, peel back one corner in register to check coverage and rub more where grey.
- How consistent were the five prints? Which variable drifted — ink, pressure, or placement?
- On solids versus fine lines, how did you vary your rubbing pressure?
- Which pulls would you accept into an edition, and why did you reject the others?
Checklist: Printing-Session Routine
- Ink modified to correct tack and film confirmed by hiss/texture
- Enough ink mixed for the whole run plus spares
- Registration system tested on scrap and locked
- Brayer re-charged with the same passes per print
- Coverage checked by lifting a corner before each full lift
- Pressure routine kept identical sheet to sheet
- Prints set to dry without smudging the margins
Editioning, Troubleshooting, and Finishing
Pull a documented edition, fix faults at their source, and present and preserve the work.
Exercise: Pull and Sign an Edition
Decide a small edition size (e.g. 10), print 20–30 percent extra, select against a BAT proof, then pencil-sign and number the accepted prints in the bottom margin.
- How many sheets did you spoil before hitting consistent quality, and was it within your spare allowance?
- Did you compare each pull to the BAT or to the previous print? Why does that distinction matter?
- How many artist's proofs did you keep, and is that under 10 percent of the edition?
Worksheet: Fault Diagnosis Log
For each fault you meet, record the symptom, the variable you suspect (ink film, pressure, or block), and the fix you applied.
- Symptom observed (patchy / slurred / specks / ghost / white gap)
- Suspected cause (ink / pressure / block / registration / paper)
- Fix applied
- Result after the fix
- Note to prevent it next time
Checklist: Clean-Up and Archive
- Usable ink scraped and reclaimed before washing
- Slab, brayer, and block cleaned (oil + soap, or water)
- Brayer stood or hung off its roller to avoid a flat spot
- Tools dried and lightly oiled against rust
- Prints fully cured and flattened under blotter and boards
- Edition record written (title, size, paper, inks, proofs)
- Prints interleaved with glassine in an archival box
- Block cancelled if the edition is permanently closed
Exercise: Present One Finished Print
Window-mat or float-mount one finished print on acid-free board, hinged at the top only, and photograph it straight-on in even light for your portfolio.
- Did you choose to cover or reveal the deckle edge, and why?
- Is the print hinged so it can move, rather than glued flat?
- What price or value would you assign, given the edition size and the time it took?
Your Action Plan
- Buy or confirm your starter kit: one mounted lino block, a V-tool and two U-gouges, a sharpening stone and strop, safe-wash oil ink, a soft brayer, a slab, a baren, and a few sheets of smooth printmaking paper.
- Hone and strop every tool and prove sharpness on newsprint before carving anything.
- Design one image in pure positive/negative masses, then mirror it and transfer it to the block.
- Map the block: ink the kept lines and shade every area to be carved away.
- Carve outline-first, then clear and flatten, and pull a rough proof to find missed specks.
- Mix enough ink for the whole run, roll to the correct hissing orange-peel film, and test on scrap.
- Build and test a registration system before printing any colour onto good paper.
- Print 20–30 percent more sheets than your edition size, selecting against a BAT proof.
- Pencil-sign and number the edition, keeping artist's proofs under 10 percent.
- Clean up properly, log and archive the edition, flatten and present one print, and cancel the block if the edition is closed.
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